Archives For tips

Flower Portraits

Varina Patel —  May 7, 2013

Touched with Light - Varina Patel

Photographing flowers isn’t as easy as it looks. Getting close enough to the ground is a challenge in itself. I use a shortened center column on my Induro CT113, and I spread its lets out nice and wide. The small image below shows how low I can go with that setup… and I can actually turn the center column upside down if I want to go even lower! I can actually suspend the camera (upside down) less than an inch above the ground if I need to.

Lanai Kai, Oahu, Hawaii (HI), USA

The real trick with flower photography is finding the right angle. I usually take my camera off the tripod and look through the view finder in search of the best angle and composition. Once I’ve found my angle, I set up the tripod and make whatever adjustments I need to get the camera right where I want it.

Trillium - Varina Patel

Sometimes I want to be directly on top of the flower, looking straight down. At other times, I want to be on the same level with the flower itself.

Columbine - Varina Patel

Of course, I’m also acutely aware of the background in each photograph. I like to use a wide aperture to produce a very narrow depth of field. That way, the flower is in sharp focus, but the background is free of distracting elements.

Tom McCall Wilderness Area, Columbia River Gorge - Oregon, USA.

Shooting outdoors usually means you have to deal with wind and light, too. When wind is an issue, I’ll use a higher ISO to get a faster shutter speed. When it’s bright and sunny, I might use a diffuser to soften the light, or a reflector to bounce light onto my subject for a bit of fill light. I sometimes use a diffuser and reflector together to get the look I want.

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I love capturing the unique “personality” of a flower in its natural habitat. Can you share any tips for photographing flowers? I’d love to hear about the techniques you are using to capture flower portraits.

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Simplifying an image can be difficult, but it starts with choosing a simple subject. Look for subjects that draw the eye and stands out from its surroundings. Don’t try to include the whole scene in the finished image – instead, choose a very simple composition that showcases just one area or object. Once you’ve identified your subject, look for distractions. It’s ok to have a secondary element in your shot… but avoid clutter.

Blinded by the Light - Varina Patel

I use lots of other techniques to simplify my images as well. If clashing colors are distracting – try converting to black and white. If dark shadows or bright highlights draw your attention away from the subject, use a diffuser to soften the light. Look for colors that are similar for a simplified color palette.

Trillium - Varina Patel

I like to use a long shutter speed to smooth the surface of a lake or pond to remove ripples on the surface. And sometimes I use a wide aperture to create a narrow depth of field that softens a distracting background.

The Quiet - Varina Patel

What techniques do you use to simplify a composition? Feel free to share examples and ideas in the comments!

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Photographic Styles

Jay and I usually shoot together, but over time we’ve each developed our own artistic styles. On April 18th, we’ll talk about how our styles have evolved over time during our Fireside Chat with Nik Software and host Scott Sheppard.

Fireside Chat: Stand By Me with Jay and Varina Patel
Time & Place: Thu, April 18, 1:00 PM EST (10:00 AM PST)

Google+ HangOut Event: http://bit.ly/12cqvC2

We hope you’ll join us!

Goodbye to Winter

Varina Patel —  April 1, 2013

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I stood by the window a few weeks ago, watching new snow fall on the snowdrops by the door. The tiny, white flowers were tightly closed against the chill – waiting for a moment of warmth. They were a quiet promise that Spring will come. I couldn’t help myself. I grabbed my camera and tripod, and went outside to kneel in the snow. :)

Here are a few tips for getting a shot like this one.

1. When photographing white objects against a white background, overexpose slightly. All that bright white throws off your camera’s meter. Check your histogram to be sure your whites are bright enough – but don’t let the details blow out.

2. When photographing water droplets with a macro lens, look closely at the reflections. Change your position if necessary to make sure the reflection isn’t distracting. In one shot from this morning, I noticed that the water droplet reflected the pattern of siding on my house. No good. I changed my angle and captured this shot instead.

Do you see the distracting lines of the house in the droplet?

Do you see the distracting lines of the house in the droplet?

The reflection in this droplet is much less distracting.

The reflection in this droplet is much less distracting.

3. Pay close attention to your color balance. A slight shift towards blue will leave those greens looking dull and lifeless.

4. I chose an aperture of f/16 for this shot because I wanted to be sure that my droplets and the flower were in sharp focus. I was so close to the flower that a wider aperture would have left me with very little depth of field to work with. Because I was so close, f/16 let me keep the flower sharp while blurring out the snowy background for a very simple finished image.

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High school students ask me if they should go to art school… with hope in their voices. Their parents ask me if I think art is a practical choice for a college major… with skepticism. And as a kid who dreamed of being a photographer – and a parent who knows that making it in the art business is tough… I’ll try to answer the question honestly.

This is something I’ve thought about quite a lot. I’m a professional photographer, and it’s a tough business. It’s incredibly competitive – and just having talent in art isn’t enough. I started out as an art student – studying photography and painting and drawing… and all the other requirements for a degree in the liberal arts. A student who graduated with a degree in art usually gets a basic education in math, science, and language as well. I don’t know of any schools that don’t require a well-rounded collection of classes. But in the end, I’m glad I decided to change my major.

I eventually earned a degree in information technology. I know – that seems like an odd choice for someone who was already building a photography business. But, it was definitely the right thing for me, rather than going through art school. See, the thing is, you don’t need a college education in order to learn to make great photographs – and there are so many ways to learn. Spending time working as a photography assistant, going on a workshop or two, shadowing a pro, and doing lots of research online… all of these are great ways to learn. But building a business? That’s an entirely different thing. If you want to be successful – to make money from your art, you need a different kind of knowledge.

The problem I’ve seen with students who finish college with a degree in art or photography, is that they feel lost once they are done with school. A business degree would help them start and run a business. A marketing degree would help them market their work. A degree in information technology (like mine) would let them build their own website, handle e-commerce, and understand the software they use for post-processing. A degree in language arts would help them write great articles so they can get published in magazines or write books. See where I’m going with this? Most art students know how to make art… but being a professional photographer is about SO much more than that.

And of course – there’s always the fact that photography is an extremely difficult world to break into. The odds of being able to make a living from it are small – so having a degree in something more “practical” is a great idea. But please don’t be discouraged! If you are determined and willing to work very hard, you can make it as a photographer. I know that’s true, because I did it myself. But remember – part of “making it” is being practical about the choices you make along the way.  The ones who succeed are the ones who understand that being a professional artist takes a lot more than just artistic talent.

If you do decide to major in art, make sure the school you’ll be attending has a well-rounded program. In addition to the classes you need for your major, look for classes that teach important skills like marketing, business, writing, computers, and so on. You might also want to consider a double major, or minor in art while concentrating your studies in another field. While you are in school, look for internships and find photographers who will let you shadow them while they work. Make connections with other photographers who know more than you do. Ask a million questions… and take note of how others are running their businesses, how they make money, how they market their work, and how they become successful. Watch for and learn from their mistakes, too… it’s always better to learn from other people’s mistakes than to make your own. ;)

For those of you who dream about being professional artists… you can do it if you are willing to work for it. ;) Good luck!

And for all of you – what advice can you offer to someone who wants to be a professional artist?

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Pay Attention to ME!

Varina Patel —  March 7, 2013

Tips for making a single element stand out in your photographs. ;)

When you shoot, do you take a moment to consider the most important element in your photograph? For this shot, I wanted to get in really close – and show off the beautiful, reflective droplets clinging to the leaf. I also wanted a very clear point of interest. So, I started looking for a single element that would work well for me. This little droplet was perfect. It stands out because it is much larger than the other droplets, and because it breaks the line that runs through the lower third of the image – between the leaf and the background.

Hakalau - Big Island - Hawai'i, USA
Here are a few tips for isolating a single element for impact.

1. You can blur the background to allow sharply focus foreground objects stand out. Blurring the background will also help obscure potentially distracting elements, which can pull the eye away from your point of interest.

2. Look for contrast. In this case I’m using contrast of size. The large drop stands out because it is so much larger than all those little ones. You can also use contrast of shape, color, tone, and so on.

3. Break the pattern. All those tiny little droplets make a pattern in this photograph – but I’ve broken that pattern. Twice. First, I positioned the leaf so that it’s edge cuts through the lower third of the photo. That brings your eye to the lower area right away. And then, just to be sure I have you where I want you, I’ve broken the pattern again by including the large droplet in the frame.

What techniques do you use to help isolate a single element within the frame? There are thousands of ways to do this. I always enjoy the challenge.

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Light and Layers

Varina Patel —  February 28, 2013

Akaka falls is located just North of Hilo on the Big Island of Hawai’i. It’s a gorgeous location and well worth the short hike… plus a couple bucks to park and use the trails. When we arrived at the falls, it was bright and sunny. The ferns were brightly lit, but the base of the falls and the left wall of the canyon were in deep shade. But I’d been watching the sky all morning, and I knew that we had enough big clouds in the sky to make the photo work. I set up my camera and tripod (we were testing Induro’s awesome CT113′s that week), and waited until a cloud blocked the direct light from the sun. Then, in that softly filtered light, I took my shot. But I still needed to bracket because the shadows were much deeper down in the valley – and the water was very bright. I took a second shot to expose correctly for the dark shadows, and a third to expose for the bright water.

Once I got home, I opened up my files and got to work. You can see the layers I used in the screen shot above. I stacked my images, and used my Intuos graphics tablet and stylus to draw simple selections. I also made slight curves adjustments to ensure that the layers looked natural together. My goal was to ensure that the scene felt natural, and that details were visible in dark and light areas alike.

A Few Simple Tips:

  • Photograph waterfalls on cloudy days, or wait for a cloud to pass over the sun. Soft light is great for waterfall shots.
  • Check to make sure you’ve captured the details you want in both the highlights areas and the shadows. You may need to bracket to get all the detail you want.
  • Use a tripod when you shoot. Our Induro’s come with us wherever we go. We often use long shutter speeds when we shoot waterfalls. I used a 0.5 second shutter speed to get the soft blur I wanted for the water in this shot.

What other tips can you share for shooting Waterfalls?

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Click to go to Nik Software Website to View Video

In our fine art workflow, Jay and I both use use SilverEFex Pro and Sharpner Pro from Nik Software. Recently, we joined Laurie Rubin from Nik Software for a webinar in which we showed a live demonstration of how we go about using these products to produce a final image. You can watch the entire video online by clicking on the image above, or by clicking here. You’ll also find several other great training videos on the same page. Enjoy!

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LOOK Before you Shoot.

Varina Patel —  February 14, 2013

I know. That seems obvious. As a pro, you’d think I’d know better. And yet here I stand… guilty of not looking closely before I took this macro shot on the big island of Hawai’i.

I was in a hurry to get the shot, and I didn’t do what I am always telling my students to do. Just take a moment to look closely! The result? Lots of cloning work in Photoshop that could have been avoided. A few quick strokes with a small brush would have removed all the dust from this little seed pod. Here’s what it looked like before I cloned out the dirt.

Luckily, it didn’t take me long to do the cleanup. I used Photoshop’s Patch and Spot Healing Brush tools to eliminate bits of dust and dirt very quickly. My stylus and Wacom Intuos5 tablet gives me precise control as I’m working, which is invaluable for this kind of correction. I zoom in so that I can see the dirt clearly, and then I can tackle those little nasties one at a time.

It would have been a lot quicker to take care of this in the field. Next time, I’ll remember.

My wise brother says, “It’s good to learn from your mistakes, but even better to learn from the mistakes of others.” Will you learn from mine, and remember to look before you shoot? :)

The moon is a gorgeous subject, but it can be tough to get the shot you want. Have you ever taken a photograph of the moon at night only to discover that it is so bright in your photograph that it appears as a bright, white spot? Do you want to capture a landscape photograph with objects in the foreground and the moon in the sky as well? The trick is to capture the scene at twilight. When the light is low, you can capture the moon and the foreground with a single exposure – without blowing out the moon or leaving the foreground pitch dark.

I took this shot at Sandy Beach on Oahu early this week. Here are a few useful tips that helped me get the shot I wanted.

1. I used an Induro tripod to hold my camera steady. A 1/5 sec shutter speed let me blur my moving subjects in the foreground for a bit of motion without blurring my moon.

2. I took a couple of test shots to make sure I had the focus I wanted both in the foreground and in the sky. I zoomed in to check the photo on the back of my camera to be sure the details in the moon were sharp.

3. I stood well back from my foreground and used a long lens – 70-200mm with a 1.4x extender – which let me zoom in to show the large size of the moon as it rose. A wide angle lens will leave you with a tiny, little moon that gets lost in the frame.

Do have any more tips for shooting the moon? Please share them in the comments so that others can learn! And then, get out there and shoot the moon, everyone! It’s such a beautiful subject!

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