Archives For RAW Format

Is it “Photoshopped”?

Jay Patel —  September 3, 2012

Sometimes when people look at our photographs, they ask if the colors are manipulated. Have people told you your photos look “fake”, “too HDRish”, or that you used too much “photoshop magic”? One of our personal favorites is the assertion that “Photoshop ruined photography.”

Believe me, we’ve heard it all. So, what’s our answer to all this? When someone asks if we photoshop our photos, we simply say “Yes”. The fact is, we use Photoshop for every single image we take because we shoot only in RAW. We need to choose the proper settings in Adobe’s RAW converter.

But how much manipulation are we really using? Each image is different, but here’s a typical photograph – and the settings we used in Adobe Camera RAW. (Click on the image to see it at a larger size.)

The most important setting is color balance. The wrong color balance will make the whole image look weird. Jay chose a setting that showed the colors as he remembered them. He also bumped up the color saturation by about 4%. (Varina often leaves this setting at zero.) Straight-out-of-the-camera images shot with Velvia film will have far more saturated colors.

In many cases, we’ll use manual blending to bring out details in over or under exposed areas. And we may use targeted adjustments – similar to the way Varina used to use burning and dodging in the darkroom. We use Photoshop to help us bring out details in areas that the camera can not handle properly because the range of light in the image.

So, what’s the secret to getting those brilliant colors? Look for conditions that produce intense colors (like sunrise and sunset), get your settings right in-camera, and follow up with subtle processing. You can find more about capturing brilliant colors in these eBooks.

RAW versus JPG

Varina Patel —  September 1, 2011

This is a question I received via email some time ago – and my response. I know – I’m getting into dangerous territory with a post on RAW versus JPG… so try not to freak out if you happen to disagree with me. I’m ok with that. Really. YOU can shoot whatever format you want. I’ll stick with RAW.

Flood on Fire - Varina Patel

“If your images are shot in RAW, have they been adjusted for sharpness, density, saturation and the like?

My wife keeps telling me (she shoots jpeg on a G6) that my final images are not ‘real’ because they were ‘done’ in Photoshop.

I say they are very real because the finished image once it goes thru the RAW processor is what I saw in my mind’s eye when I took the shot in the first place…

…Do you have an opinion on this?

We are on the cusp of sleeping in different bedrooms, sharing parts of the dog and so on.

Regards,
- A

Here’s my response…

So, let’s start by looking at this analytically.

What is the difference between a JPG and a RAW file? In order to create a raw file, the following steps take place in your camera:

1. Photons reach the pixels on the sensor
2. An electrical charge is created on each pixel
3. The charge is converted to voltage
4. The voltage is amplified
5. The Analog to Digital Converter (ADC) measures the volts and assigns discrete values
6. The ADC converts this information into binary

That’s it. That’s a RAW file. Now… to create a JPG file, the camera does all that too… and then it does the following:

7. Uses a Bayer Interpolation to create color information (remember – your camera can’t see… so it is using a mathematical equation to make a decent guess at the correct colors. Sometimes it is correct – but not always.)
8. White balance adjustments are made (again – the camera is blind, so it uses a complicated mathematical equation to guess at a neutral tone)
9. Makes a series of tonal adjustments including contrast enhancements, etc… in fact… all those things you can do for yourself in the RAW converter are just done automatically in a JPG file
10. Sharpens the image (another algorithm… sharpening is applied indiscriminately across the entire image. Whether it needs it or not.)
11. And last… but certainly not least. The camera compresses the data. Which means it throws away any data it didn’t use. If it guessed wrong about the correct color balance – that’s too bad. The correct data has been thrown out. If the contrast is too high, or the sharpening is too extreme… you are out of luck. The data is gone and it cannot be recovered. Ever.

So.

If you shoot RAW, those last five steps are up to you. Luckily, you aren’t blind. (At least, I’m assuming you aren’t.) You know how the scene looked in reality. So, rather than relying on a series of blind mathematical equations, you can rely on your own vision. Is it perfect? Will you get it right every time? Nope. But it’s a whole heck of a lot more reliable than the camera.

How does processing a raw file compare to developing an image in a darkroom? Well – Photoshop (or whatever software you use) is your digital darkroom. You use it the way a film photographer would use a darkroom… to brighten or darken areas of the image, to adjust contrast and luminosity in specific areas of the image, to adjust color and so on. Developing an image in a darkroom is completely different from processing an image in Photoshop… but it accomplishes the same purpose. Would you say that a photographer who shoots film and develops his own film in the darkroom isn’t a photographer? And would you say that a film photographer who takes his film from the camera and sends it off to have the developing and printing done by someone else is superior to the one who does it himself? It’s a strange argument, really. In the past, a photographer who didn’t do his own development was considered “less than” by those who did all the work themselves. Those who did their own developing thought that those who didn’t weren’t “real” photographers. But now, with the advent of digital photography and Photoshop, the photographer who actually goes beyond the release of the shutter to handle the processing of the image himself is in question. :)

And finally – does it really matter? It’s art. Photoshop is a tool. Just as a brush is a tool for a painter, and the kiln is a tool for a potter. So in the end, does it really matter? Just enjoy photography for what it is. Art and pleasure. An expression of what you love and who you are. Love it. Don’t fight it. ;) RAW or JPG… in the end, it’s the reaction of the viewer that makes a difference. And the pleasure the photographer gets from the process of creating. Certainly not the file type.

So yes. My photographs are shot in RAW and adjusted in the Adobe RAW converter and Photoshop. The colors are as close to the reality of the scene as I can make them (most of the time). I’m not perfect – but I do try. :) But it doesn’t matter to me which file type other photographers choose. It’s their art I’m interested in seeing.

Have a great day. And my best regards to your wife.
Please don’t try dividing the dog. I hear that gets messy.

Varina

To learn more about Photo Processing check our webinars below:

Sol Duc, Olympic National Park, Washington (WA), USA

Jay took this photo in Olympic National Park on an overcast day. The light in the forest was so soft and beautiful, and the fresh greens seemed almost golden in the scattered light.

When Jay opened this file in Adobe Camera RAW, it didn’t look like this. We’ve created a short video to show how he processed this image. It’s easier than you might expect!

Our goal is usually to create an image that feels natural to the viewer. Keep in mind that this is just one way to do it – you may choose a different process or a different program. There’s no single “right” way.

To learn more about RAW processing check out our Session 2 our Nature Photography and iHDR Workflow Recording: Histogram and RAW Processing

Quick Tips: Color Processing

Jay Patel —  October 13, 2010

'Twixt Autumn and Winter - Varina Patel

It is well known that colors can effect the mood of an image. Blue, for example, is associated with feelings of calm – azure summer skies and deep lakes… and cold – winter scenes of snow and freezing glaciers. Most viewers will associate a chilly feeling with an image of ice – like the one above. But how many will notice the subtle blue color cast?

Without a direct comparison, it’s difficult to see the blue cast at all. Take a look at the image below – you can see that the original image is on the left. On the right, the color cast from the ice has been completely removed. Although the texture of the ice is preserved, the chilly feeling is lacking. This subtle change reduces the overall effectiveness of the image.

During processing, it is important to be aware of slight color casts like this. Think about what you are trying to convey with your image. Do you want your viewer to perceive a sense of calm and cool in your image? Or are you trying to invoke feelings of warmth and comfort?

To learn more about photography check out our eBooks below:

Workflow Series CollectionApprentice Series Collection

The Finished Product

Varina Patel —  September 30, 2010

When we visited Olympic National Park in Washington in 2009, we spent hours shooting at Second Beach. We arrived when the sun was low in the sky – hoping to capture golden light as the sun sank towards the horizon… and maybe a nice sunset, too. We’ve been to this beach many times before and since. It’s a gorgeous location with large and small rocks, sea stacks, tide pools, and smooth sand. I took this shot a few minutes after sunset – as the tide was coming in and the color in the sky was at its best.

Processing a photo with a wide range of light usually requires bracketing. In this case, I took two bracketed shots and opened them in Adobe Camera Raw. I selected my color balance for a natural-looking sky, and then adjusted the contrast. I ignored the foreground in the first image, and processed it for the sky alone. The second image would be used for the water. I made sure the highlight areas in the water were not overexposed, and opened the photo in Photoshop… then opened the RAW file again in Adobe Camera Raw. This time, I reduced the clarity of the photo… allowing the waves in the foreground to soften even more. (If you make different adjustments to a single RAW file, you can save a “Snapshot” of each version for easy reference.)

You can see my three adjustments in the triptych below. Notice that the sky in the photo on the left looks good. The highlights in the water are just right in the middle photo, and the foreground waves look nice and smooth in the third. In all, these adjustments took me three to five minutes to make.

Once I’ve prepared these three versions of the same composition, I use our iHDR manual blending technique to produce a final image that is as close to my memory of scene as I can bring it. I stack the image in three layers, and use selections and masks to blend the images very carefully. Sometimes the process takes a while – but if I know what I want in my final image, I can finish in just a few minutes… so an image like this one might take me about ten minutes to process from beginning to end.

And while we’re on the subject of iHDR – just a reminder for those who are interested…

Our next live iHDR webinar series starts this Sunday – so if you are interested, don’t forget to sign up soon! We record each session so that anyone who can’t make the live sessions can watch the streaming video for up to four months after the class. Students who do attend the live session have that option as well… in case you need a refresher. :)

Click on the link below to register for the webinar: