Archives For Photography Equipment

Lanai Kai, Oahu, Hawaii (HI), USA

After shooting in salt water and sand during our trip to Hawaii, our tripods were badly in need of cleaning. Since it’s important to clean your tripod now and then, we thought we’d share the process on our blog. We try to clean our tripods about twice a year – more often if we’ve been shooting in sand, salt water, or swamps. Grains of sand can work their way into the grooves and threads of your tripod – you’ll know they’re in there if you hear a grinding or grating sound as you turn the knobs or make adjustments to the tripod. (Cringe!) Salt water can corrode some metals – so you should rinse your tripod after shooting at the beach. And swamp water – well, the bacteria that grows in swamps can climb right into your tripod legs and just hang out there… multiplying happily until you open your tripod and discover that it really stinks! Cleaning the tripod isn’t particularly difficult… though it can take some time. Jay and I usually clean both tripods at once, so we set aside a morning to do it. We’ve done it many times, so we’ve got it down to a science, and we can complete the task quickly.

The first step is to take the tripod apart. Each tripod will be different – Jay and I both have Induro’s CT113 Carbon Fiber Tripod. The important thing is to keep track of where all those little pieces go, so that you can put it all back together when youree done. If you’re worried about putting it all back together, take some photos for reference as you work. You may find that there are more pieces than you expected. Here is a video that show you how we clean our tripods:

The frequency with which you’ll need to clean your tripod depends upon how you use it. If it never leaves the house, you probably don’t need to clean it at all. If you are shooting on the grass or a muddy path – just rinse the feet when necessary and you’re good to go. Rain won’t hurt your tripod – though prolonged exposure to moisture can cause some parts to rust… so take the time to dry it off when you come in and leave it open until it’s thoroughly dry. Always rinse your tripod if you use it in salt water – salt can cause corrosion as well.

Take simple precautions to help keep your tripod clean a little longer. When we are shooting in sand, mud, or water, we always extend the lowest leg of the tripod at least a few inches beyond the mess. That simple action keeps the joint up out of the muck. If you can avoid it, don’t immerse the joint in sand or salt water. But don’t worry too much if it does get into the joints. Just take some time to clean it up and you’ll be good to go!

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Filters and Fieldwork

Varina Patel —  January 19, 2012

Singing the Blues - Varina Patel

This shot required very little special post-processing… just setting the correct color balance, and a bit of subtle mid-tone contrast. The real work of creating this particular image happened in the field… well… on the beach, actually. :)

This is a mid-day shot – I took it around 2 pm. Deep blue storm clouds were moving in. The water at Bahia Honda in the Florida Keys is this incredible turquoise or emerald color (depending upon light conditions and how rough the water is) and the sand is smooth and white. I wanted something different for this image. Jay I were playing around with our cameras… and this is the result.

There were a couple of problems with this scene as I stood there. First, the waves weren’t big enough to blur out easily… but they were too small to look good frozen in time. No matter what I did with my camera settings, I wasn’t getting a very interesting image. Second, there were strands of dark seaweed floating in the water. They created distracting streaks in the water, and left my test shots feeling pretty unappealing.

The solution to both problems? A whole lot of Neutral Density Filter. I used my own filter, and also borrowed Jay’s. The filters significantly reduced the amount of light entering the lens – by about ten stops in all. So, in order to get a correct exposure, I had to use a long shutter speed. 10 seconds at f/11 produced exactly the effect I wanted. The waves were completely smoothed out, so that the water seems calm and almost surreal. And all that floating seaweed? Well, it moved around so much with each wave that it blurred itself into oblivion! I didn’t have to clone out a single strand.

Even the clouds are softer – because they shifted during the long exposure. The rock in the foreground provides a clear point of interest, and since it is in clear focus, the scene doesn’t feel too blurred. Sometimes it’s helpful to have a sharp foreground object when you blur an image like this – it helps to anchor the scene.

So – what do you think? Was the technique successful? Does the image work for you?

Have you ever used a Neutral Density Filter? Or a long shutter speed to produce an effect like this? If not – maybe you should try it! It’s kinda fun! :)

Full Frame or Crop Factor?

Jay Patel —  January 9, 2012

“Why do you need a full frame camera?”

We have heard many different answers to this question… “Because most pros use Full frame camera.” “Because a full frame camera is better than a crop factor camera.” “Because a full frame camera has better dynamic range or tonality.” “Because my photos come out better on a full frame camera.” We believe that both crop factor and full frame cameras have their pros and cons, and we often use one over the other when the situation calls for it.

Let’s start with the full frame camera. Because of its larger pixel size, when compared with its crop-factor counterpart, it is typically associated with lower noise levels at higher ISO settings. (We are comparing cameras that appeared on the market at about the same time… not ones that were introduced several years apart). So, our first choice for shooting low-light or night photography would be the full frame camera because of it’s high ISO capabilities. There are also more options for prime lenses that fit a full frame camera – including tilt-shift (T/S) lenses in the wide-angle range. Sure, these prime lenses can be used on a crop factor body… but their effective focal length will be longer. When shooting with a wide-angle T/S lens, we prefer to use a full frame camera.

Night Shot with Full Frame Camera

Night Shot with Full Frame Camera

What about a crop factor camera? One of the biggest drawbacks of the crop factor camera is also its biggest advantage - the multiplier effect. The crop sensor increases the effective focal length of the lens you are using. The crop factor makes a wide-angle lens longer (an 18mm lens with a 1.6 crop factor has an effective focal length of 28mm) – and a long lens even longer (a 400mm lens on a 1.6x crop camera has an effective focal length of 640mm)! That means that a crop factor camera is an excellent choice when you are shooting wildlife. Macro photographers also benefit, because the multiplier effect gives the photographer a larger working distances and more DOF for the same field of view.

300mm lens with 1.6x = 480mm effective focal length

When using a wide-angle lens on a crop factor body, the near DOF limit is a lot closer than the equivalent focal length lens with a full frame camera. As a result, a crop factor camera can get closer to the subject than a Full frame camera for the same field of view. Crop factor cameras are great when you want to get really close to your subject and still shoot wide. We were awfully happy to have a crop factor camera in Utah’s slot canyons!

10mm with 1.6x = 16mm effective focal length

So the choice between a crop factor camera and a full frame comes down to the situation. There’s no “right” answer here! We like to have one of each so that when we are in the field, we can choose the right lens for the job.

To learn more about colors, exposure and histograms check out our ebooks below:

The Mike Moats Macro Light Control Kit includes a 24-inch Wimberly™ Plamp and two 14-inch Westcott™ Illuminator Reflector Panels – one is silver on one side and white on the other, and the other is a translucent white diffuser. It also includes the Finding Character in Nature ebook by Mike. I went out for a leisurely “test drive” on a lovely – and hot and humid – July morning.

At first, I felt like I was carrying around too much equipment. Tripod and camera in one hand, plamp and filters in the other – useful or not, I had to find a way to carry everything more easily. So, I clamped the Plamp onto my tripod, and hung the reflector panels from it. Now, I could carry everything with one hand. Problem solved. I chose a small thistle, and got to work. Lucky for me, I had my trusty side-kick along to document the process – thanks for helping out, Jay!

First, I set up my tripod then put the Plamp to work positioning the chosen thistle just where I wanted it. I’ll go into more detail about that fabulous little tool later – for now, indulge me while I go into some detail about controlling the light.

I deliberately chose a location in the sun because I wanted to put those illuminator panels to work. The backlighting was delicious but the intensity of the light made it difficult to capture the entire dynamic range with a single exposure. I wanted to capture good detail in the shadow areas without blowing out the bright areas, and that’s tough to do with a shot like this unless you happen to have a handy little reflector panel hanging from your tripod! The silver reflector bounced light from the sun onto the front of the thistle, enhancing all those prickly details. The back-lighting outlines the plant, without blowing out the highlights. Perfect.

I took a few comparison shots to show the dramatic difference a reflector or diffuser can make – take a look at the images below.

Here’s a shot taken without any reflector or diffuser. Notice the dark background. The camera can’t handle the entire dynamic range, so the photographer has to choose between capturing detail in the highlights, or capturing detail in the shadows.

Natural Light

For this shot, I used the silver reflector to bounce light onto the flower and the shadowed background. You can see quite a bit more detail back there, and the shadows on the flower aren’t so dark. You still get the backlit effect. This reflector is great for dramatic lighting.

Natural Light + Reflector

For this last shot, I held the diffused panel just behind and to the right of the flower to filter the strong, directional sunlight. I also increased my shutter speed slightly to get the exposure just right in the camera. Notice how soft and even the light is in this image. The diffuser is perfect when you want a more subtle lighting effect.

Natural Light + Diffuser

The best thing about these little panels is that you can really extend your shooting options and expand your time frame for getting good photos. It’s no longer necessary to confine your photography to times when the light is perfect. And there’s no need to purchase an expensive flash unit for spotlighting your subject. (Of course, if you already have a flash unit, you could use the diffuser panel to soften it and remove harsh glare, or the reflector to bounce the flash for softer, indirect light. The options are endless.)

Now, let’s get back to the Plamp. This deceptively simple little tool is enormously helpful. Any photographer who has tried to capture a plant portrait knows how hard it is to isolate a subject in a weedy field or an overgrown garden. For a clean composition, I needed my pretty yellow flower to stay just the right distance from my lens, at the just the right angle. I also needed to separate it from its brothers so that I could isolate it with a shallow depth of field. I’ve abandoned shots like this in the past because I couldn’t get the plant to stay where I wanted it… this time, it wasn’t a problem. You should have seen me grinning like an idiot out there.

The padded clip did no damage to any flowers I shot that morning, so the birds and the butterflies weren’t offended and the Plamp can be used to hold a reflector or diffuser too – you can even use it to hold other plants out the frame. For those who like a shorter arm, the Plamp snaps apart pretty easily. You can actually remove some of the little ball-jointed sections to shorten it. Personally, I like it as it is.

Mike’s kit is perfect for macro photography. The illuminator panels can be used together or separately, and when I fold them up, they take up very little room in my camera bag. They’re extremely lightweight and easy to carry, too. I store the Plamp in my bag by folding it into a tight little coil. Everything in the kit seems to be very sturdy, and I don’t see any reason why these tools won’t last for many years to come.

My only regret? I wish I had another kit. Two Plamps are better than one – one to hold the reflector, and one for the flower. And Jay and I are already fighting over those reflector panels.

The Mike Moats Macro Kit is available at the NPN/OPG Store.

Does equipment really matter?

Jay Patel —  August 25, 2010

“My old camera was a Canon 20D (or another less-expensive, consumer-level camera), but I’m really unhappy with my photos. I recently purchased the new Canon 5D Mk II! Now I should be able to get much better pictures! I can’t wait to try it out!” – How many of you have heard someone say something like this – or even said it yourself? It’s a sentiment that we hear over and over again. But, does your equipment really matter?

This shot from Paria Canyon in Utah was taken with a relatively inexpensive, consumer-level camera – the Canon 20D. The image was published in  Popular Photography Magazine a few years ago, and has won more accolades and sold more prints than any other image in Varina’s portfolio. And yet – not a single publisher has asked about the equipment used to take the photo before asking about publication. No judge has asked which camera was used to get these results. And no buyer has requested information about equipment before making a purchasing decision.

Magazine and calendar companies are not interested in the equipment that was used to get the shot. They want high-resolution images for printing – they want to know the size of the image, and they want images that are sharp and free of noise. In many cases, an image will require up or down-sizing… but beyond a few technical specs, nobody (except other photographers) really cares what equipment you are using. It’s the photograph that matters. This shot from Death Valley National Park is Jay’s highest selling image – it was taken with a Canon 10D.

As outdoor photographers, our equipment is very visible… and common perception is that fancy equipment equals skill. Varina brought her Canon 7D to the soccer fields last Saturday – with the impressive-looking 70-200mm lens attached. A photographer friend of ours introduced her to another parent, and added that “her photos are incredible” (Thanks, Joe!). To her surprise, the response from this man she had never met was, “I know!” She thanked him for his kind words, and tried to figure out where he’d seen her work before… but it soon became apparent that he hadn’t seen it. His certainty that her photography was good was based solely on the fact that she was holding some beautiful equipment. Does fancy equipment make a good photographer? The fact is, most of the photos Varina has taken with that fancy lens are snapshots of the kids playing soccer – shots that certainly wouldn’t be considered fine art by anyone outside the immediate family! Her primary lens is the Canon 10-22mm wide-angle lens. It’s a much smaller and less conspicuous lens… which can’t even boast the “luxury-series” designation from Canon. Have any of you had similar experiences? We’d be very surprised if you hadn’t.

Of course, more expensive equipment comes with advanced functionality… that’s not in question, here. However, if you are struggling with photography, you need to consider whether you are limited by the capability of your camera system – or by our own lack of knowledge about photography. If you are struggling with the fundamentals of photography – out-of-focus images, poor highlight control, uninteresting compositions, lack of knowledge of histograms and exposure adjustment, or poor image processing – then purchasing new equipment will not improve your work. Your money would be better spent on a good photography class. Look for classes taught through local camera clubs and look online for articles, tutorials, or discussion forums. (I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that we offer tutorials, workshops, and webinars as well.) Don’t be afraid to ask questions… and submit your work for critique as often as you can. When you are secure in the basics – when you know how to use your camera and can get the results you want with the equipment you have – THEN think about the limitations of your equipment.

New equipment will not make you a better photographer. Only knowledge and experience can do that.

I know others have had similar experiences. What happens when you go out with your fancy equipment? Have publishers refused your work because it was shot with an “inferior” camera? Are you a better photographer because you own L-series glass and expensive camera equipment? ;) As always – we’d love to hear from you!

To learn more about histograms and colors check out our ebooks below:

Jay

Jay Patel —  January 1, 1970

Contact

All photographs on this website are copyrighted by Jay Patel and cannot be used without written permission. For licensing and publishing options, please contact Jay Patel at:

Email: pateljx@gmail.com


Equipment

Cameras

Canon 5D MKIII, Canon 5D MKII, Canon 5D
Canon 7D, Canon 50D, Canon 20D,
Canon 10D, Canon D30

Lens

Canon EF-s 10-22 F3.5-5.6
Canon EF 17-40 F4 L
Canon EF 28-70 F2.8 L
Canon EF 135 F2 L
Canon EF 180 F3.5L Macro
Canon 70-200 IS F4L

Filters

Hoya Multicoated Circular Polarizer
HiTech 0.6, 0.9 ND Soft Grad
HiTech 0.6 ND Hard Grad
HiTech 1.2 ND

Misc Equipment

Wacom Intuos5 Pen Tablet
Gitzo 1127 Carbon Fiber Tripod
Nik Silver EFex
Nik Sharpner Pro
Acratech Ultimate Ballhead
Canon TC-80N3 Remote Release


About

Seeds of Jay Patel’s appreciation for beautiful places were planted early in his childhood on numerous trips to some of the most breathtaking locations on the Indian subcontinent. His passion for such magnificent places now manifests itself in a continuous search to capture nature’s majesty with his camera. Jay’s career in photography began in the summer of 2001 when he purchased his first digital SLR. In subsequent years, he spent much time reading photographic magazines and Internet articles and studying the styles of great landscape photographers. He has had no formal education or training in photography.
Although Jay produces most of his work in rich vibrant colors, he also enjoys the creativity and latitude offered by B/W photography in digital format. His photographs try to capture both the physical and emotional nature of light. “Light in nature takes on astonishingly diverse shapes, forms and colors that allow us to interact with the world around us. The calm deep blue of twilight, the dynamic fiery red glow of lava, the piercing beams of sun breaking through the clouds, and the soft romantic moonlight reflected in a glacial lake all affect our mood, our feelings and our very outlook on life”. It is this physical and emotional nature of light that he passionately struggles to capture through his photographs. He is well aware, however, that his photographs can convey only so much of the wonder as it is beyond his abilities to replicate the awe and magnificence of the natural world. He is not sure his efforts will endure the test of time, but he certainly hopes they will provide inspiration for others who may also try to capture the nature of light.