Archives For how to take photos

Photographing Reflected Light

Jay Patel —  December 3, 2012

The word reflection is usually used in reference to reflections on wet surfaces… but light is often reflected from other surfaces as well. In nature, this phenomenon is most obvious when light reflects off surface with smooth textures – such as sand, snow, salt, or mud. I took the image below just before sunrise at Mesquite Dunes in Death Valley National Park. Notice that the sand is reflecting the rich red and orange light from the clouds. Clouds and humidity will influence the color and intensity of the reflected light.

Death Valley National Park, CA

After the sun comes up, the color of the light usually becomes more golden. I took the next shot on another morning – this time, just after sunrise. On this particular day scattered clouds allowed the sunlight to come through and paint the dunes with an intense warm light.

I took the photograph below at mid-day under blue skies. As you might expect, the dunes in this image are reflecting the white midday light. The scene looks very different at noon than it does during the golden hour.

In many cases, your camera’s automatic settings will try to “correct” these natural color casts. Camera algorithms are set to determine a neutral base point, and to adjust the other colors accordingly. You can get past this annoying problem by paying attention to colors when you are shooting – and setting your color balance manually. Those color casts are real and beautiful! Don’t let your camera (or automatic settings in your processing software) make decisions about color balance for you!

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Landscape photographers love to shoot pristine scenes that seem to be untouched by human hands. I believe that humans are part of nature, and sometimes a human element can add an interesting or emotional point of interest. Here are some examples that show how I have incorporated human elements into my photographs.

Point of Interest

Here is a shot of a tall ship in the Florida Keys. I used this ship as a point of interest. I composed the photo to include the sea, the ship, and the sky – and nothing else. The ship stands out as a point of interest because it is so different from the natural elements within the frame.

Leading Lines

In this shot from Olympic National Park, I used leading lines to lead the viewers through the coastal rainforest. Trails, fences, bridges, and roads can make great leading lines. In the example below, I used the long beams of a fence to lead the viewer toward the fantastic sunrise, and the photographers who were hard at work during our workshop at Yellowstone National Park. The photographers also serve as point of interest in this shot.

Emotional Impact

Here’s a shot that captures the beauty of this location, and evokes a strong emotional response. Not only does our friend, Anna, serve as a beautiful point of interest in the photograph, but since it is unusual to see a person in a wheelchair at the beach, the impact of the photograph is increased. Anna’s contented smile adds to the emotional impact as well. Children are another great subject for photos like these. They tend to put a smile on our faces and remind us of our own youth.

Perspective

Oftentimes, a familiar object such as a tree, a bush, or a human figure will provide a sense of scale in an photograph. Without the human figure in the image above, it would be difficult to judge the height of the canyon walls. Adding a human element puts the walls of the canyon into perspective. The boy’s pose also adds a sense of wonder as he tilts his head to look upward.

Here is another example of perspective using an human element. I took this shot of Havasu falls as Varina was crossing the creek. I waited until she was close to the falls to provide a sense of perspective for the viewer, allowing you to understand just how high these falls really are. This shot also conveys a sense of adventure and emotional impact to those of us who love the great outdoors.

Each of these photos would lose some of their impact without the human elements. So, next time you find yourself without a good foreground object or a point of interest, ask yourself this – Can I place myself or another human element in the photograph?

Do you have any examples that show the use of human elements in a landscape photograph? If so, feel free to share them in the comments below.

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The Workflow Series

Jay Patel —  August 9, 2012

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Collection:  Waterfalls, Coastlines, Mountains, Details & Macro

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The Apprentice Series

Jay Patel —  August 6, 2012

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Collection:  Learning to See, Vibrant Colors, What the Heck is a Histogram?

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The Complete Collection

Jay Patel —  August 2, 2012

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ebook: Learning to See

Jay Patel —  May 17, 2012

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Have you ever photographed a subject that is either very dark or very bright? Is it easy? Nope…it’s not. There are several factors that make it difficult to photograph subjects that are mostly white or mostly black.

Exposure

The camera’s built-in algorithms nearly always get the exposure wrong when the subject is all white or all black. If ambient light is too low, the camera can’t meter properly. When Jay was taking this photograph in Capital Reef National Park on a Moonless night, the camera could not accurately measure the exposure. He wanted to show the Milky Way as it is visible to the human eye.  So, he used the histogram to determine the proper exposure without the help of the meter. He made a guess at setting that might work and took a single shot. Then he checked the histogram to see if the stars were bright enough – or too bright. He took several shots to determine the proper exposure.

Another challenge a scene like this poses is lighting the foreground object. There is enough light to capture the stars, but not enough light to capture the foreground. Jay used a headlamp to paint the foreground with just a small amount of light. Once again, he used the histogram to decide how much light was right for painting the foreground. He wanted to add just enough light to make the foreground visible, but not so much that foreground would appear to be obviously artificially lit.

Focusing

High or low key subjects are often characterized by low contrast. Accurately focus is often difficult when  you don’t have high contrast edges to work with. This shot from Artist Paint Pots in Yellowstone National Park was a challenge for focus.

In order to get the shot he wanted, Jay set the focus to the correct distance using autofocus, and then switched to manual focus mode to lock the focus. Once the focus was locked, he could take several shots of exploding mud bubbles and hope to catch one with interesting patterns.

How much contrast is enough?

Once you overcome the challenges of exposure and focus, it’s time to think about post-processing. Default software settings often pump up the contrast to bring out rich colors and details. With a low contrast image, increasing the contrast can actually make a photo less appealing. For this shot of Skógafoss in Iceland, Varina actually reduced the overall contrast slightly for a more nature look.

Mirage


White Balance

And then there’s white balance. This can get a little tricky… especially with wide-angle photography. The scene we’re working with here is actually relatively evenly lit, thanks to the full moon that painted the balanced rock with light. Beautiful. The problem is that the white balance for the sky is different than the white balance for the foreground. For this shot, Varina choose one white balance for the sky – making sure that the blue looked clean and natural. She chose a different white balance for the foreground, letting the color in the rocks take center stage. After processing the star-trails (that’s a whole different issue), she used layers and masks to fix the color of the rocks.

Time Turner

 

How do you deal with distracting compositional elements? One way is to exclude them from your final image either by cropping or by using a different perspective…but what if you aren’t able to do that? Why not make it a part of your composition?


Take a look at the image above. It would have been impossible to capture this scene from this angle without including at least a part of “The Dancing Tree” on the left. Instead, I made it a part of the composition by placing it and the mountain using the rule of the thirds. I chose my focal length carefully so that both the mountain and the tree were similar in size. I used the river as a leading line to lead the eye toward the mountain.

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Capturing a broad tonal range in landscape photography often poses a challenge – even for the most experienced photographers. Today, a lot of us deal with the problem by bracketing and using HDR software or manual blending techniques to blend images later. But, there is a simpler way to eliminate the problem entirely… wait for the right lighting conditions. Mid-day light tends to be harsh – so you have to deal with harsh shadows and blown highlights. Early morning or late evening light produces a much narrower tonal range – and overcast skies soften light even further. In many cases, your camera can easily handle that compressed tonal range. If you want to capture an image in-camera… and avoid using software to blend images… wait to take the photograph when the light is soft and even.

Sol Duc Falls, Olympic National Park, WA

I took this photo of Solduc falls (above) in Washington’s beautiful Olympic National Park early in the morning – well before the sun was high in the sky. The very soft light allowed me to expose every part of the image properly without having to resort to bracketing or targeted blending to bring out the details in the water. I could have created an equally effective image under overcast skies.

Sol Duc Falls, Olympic National Park, WA

Notice the highlights and shadows in the second photograph. Harsh, direct sunlight creates harsh highlights in the bright areas, and the dark shadows lack any detail at all. Although the rainbow is pretty, the unappealing light is more than the camera could handle… so the image doesn’t work.

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