Archives For composition

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Simplifying an image can be difficult, but it starts with choosing a simple subject. Look for subjects that draw the eye and stands out from its surroundings. Don’t try to include the whole scene in the finished image – instead, choose a very simple composition that showcases just one area or object. Once you’ve identified your subject, look for distractions. It’s ok to have a secondary element in your shot… but avoid clutter.

Blinded by the Light - Varina Patel

I use lots of other techniques to simplify my images as well. If clashing colors are distracting – try converting to black and white. If dark shadows or bright highlights draw your attention away from the subject, use a diffuser to soften the light. Look for colors that are similar for a simplified color palette.

Trillium - Varina Patel

I like to use a long shutter speed to smooth the surface of a lake or pond to remove ripples on the surface. And sometimes I use a wide aperture to create a narrow depth of field that softens a distracting background.

The Quiet - Varina Patel

What techniques do you use to simplify a composition? Feel free to share examples and ideas in the comments!

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Garden of Eden

Jay Patel —  March 27, 2013

Punch Bowl Falls, Columbia River Gorge, Oregon (OR), USA

I am pretty sure that the Garden of Eden would have looked something like this. I love this spot in Eagle Creek in Northern Oregon. The best time to visit this location is when it has been raining – or under heavily overcast skies. Filtered light brings out the rich greens and reduces the overall dynamic range.

This was my third attempt to photograph this location….and if I had to try 300 more times before getting a shot like this, I wouldn’t mind in the least. I enjoyed every minute of it.

I wanted to create a sense of depth in the finished image. To do this, I placed the camera close the surface of the water and used a wide-angle lens. I stood in the water (did I mention that the water was icy cold because of Spring snow melt?) for about 45 minutes and waited for just the right distribution of the bubbles to go by me to capture their streaks with a long shutter speed. By the time I was done, my feet were numb… I think I could feel my toes again after another hour and a half. ;)

Pay Attention to ME!

Varina Patel —  March 7, 2013

Tips for making a single element stand out in your photographs. ;)

When you shoot, do you take a moment to consider the most important element in your photograph? For this shot, I wanted to get in really close – and show off the beautiful, reflective droplets clinging to the leaf. I also wanted a very clear point of interest. So, I started looking for a single element that would work well for me. This little droplet was perfect. It stands out because it is much larger than the other droplets, and because it breaks the line that runs through the lower third of the image – between the leaf and the background.

Hakalau - Big Island - Hawai'i, USA
Here are a few tips for isolating a single element for impact.

1. You can blur the background to allow sharply focus foreground objects stand out. Blurring the background will also help obscure potentially distracting elements, which can pull the eye away from your point of interest.

2. Look for contrast. In this case I’m using contrast of size. The large drop stands out because it is so much larger than all those little ones. You can also use contrast of shape, color, tone, and so on.

3. Break the pattern. All those tiny little droplets make a pattern in this photograph – but I’ve broken that pattern. Twice. First, I positioned the leaf so that it’s edge cuts through the lower third of the photo. That brings your eye to the lower area right away. And then, just to be sure I have you where I want you, I’ve broken the pattern again by including the large droplet in the frame.

What techniques do you use to help isolate a single element within the frame? There are thousands of ways to do this. I always enjoy the challenge.

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Armageddon

Jay Patel —  March 4, 2013

IMG_1587.tif

Storms produce some of the most breathtaking photographs and this one was no exception. On this particular day, we heard thunder in the distance, but all of us were sure it was the rumblings of Steamboat Geyser. The kids were convinced that it was about to blow… though it hasn’t actually erupted since 2005. The storm moved in fast and furious… and we reached cover moments before it began to hail. The kids were thrilled!

I shot this image on the fly as we were running back to the shelter to escape the storm. Luckily for me, the exposure was easy to adjust due to the heavily overcast skies.

Sometimes, I can finish post-production work in just a few minutes… and sometimes, it takes a lot longer. This shot from Snowmass Wilderness in Colorado was a real challenge. Let me see if I can give you an idea of what made it difficult, and how I handled the processing. First, taking this shot was an amazing experience. We watched this storm coming toward us for a short time, and then grabbed our cameras and headed out to get a few shots. The first thing that caught my eye were the colors. The brilliant golden leaves were a perfect compliment to the deep blue tones in the approaching storm. I wanted to capture that juxtaposition – and also capture the chaos in the sky. I chose a simple composition – ignoring the lake behind the trees and choosing a single peak to minimize distractions. I took several shots, waiting for a moment when the skies were full of textures.

Because the leaves were moving in the high winds, I knew I would need to capture the entire dynamic range with a single exposure. If I couldn’t do that, I would end up with a “ghosting” effect as I worked on a blend. If I could process a single image twice – once for the leaves in the foreground and once for the background – I would get a much cleaner blend. Because the skies were heavily overcast, I was able to get the shot I needed.

As the storm blew closer, I could hear the rain falling on the water of the lake – getting closer and closer. As the first drops fell on my camera, I packed up and headed back to the car – just in time. We both love storms, so we watched the rain for a while, and then continued on our way.

The first step in post, was to process the image for the leaves in the foreground and then again for the background. You can see those two images below.

I processed the image once for the leaves…

…and once again for the background.

Then, I created a mask using the color selection tool to isolate the yellow leaves on the lighter layer. The blend sounds simple enough… but moving leaves can be difficult to deal with – even when you are processing a single image twice for a blend. The problem is that some leaves are moving more than others. So, some are slightly blurred, some are completely blurred, and others are sharp. When I make a color selection, I feather it slightly for a smoother blend. The problem is that the selection needs more feathering in areas that are more blurred, and less feathering in sharper areas. That’s a tough problem when you are dealing with thousands of leaves.

I blended the images in Photoshop using our manual iHDR techniques.

Of course, there are lots of different ways I could have solved the problem in Photoshop – some easier than others. But there was no quick fix this time. I tried several different methods for refining my mask – from isolating and subtracting the blue channel to creating a soft light layer and using a targeted luminosity mask to capture those edges. I even converted the image to the ProPhoto color space so I could create a smoother luminosity mask for a cleaner transition in high contrast areas. The problem was worst where the branches reached above the horizon into the sky, so I used a mask to target that area on another layer.

Here are the layers I used for blending. Notice that I also used curves layers to bring out some contrast in the background layer, and to bring back the blue tones I remembered from being on location.

Still, I wasn’t satisfied. In the end, I decided to work on a pixel-by-pixel basis. I zoomed in close, and used the Precision Mode option on my Wacom Intuos 5 tablet to work on those tiny details. I made very slight adjustments to the mask for the foreground trees layer – painting on the mask itself. I went back and forth between my black and white brushes, changing the size of the brushes with the touch ring as I went.

Leaves at 100% – before mask refinement. Can you see the dark lines around some of the leaves?

Finished leaves at 100% – shadows on the leaves, and similar tones in the background made masking difficult. I used Precision Mode on my Wacom tablet to clean up my mask for a clean finish.

Of course, I didn’t make adjustments to every single leaf. I targeted those that seemed distracting and took a few extra minutes in those areas. Post-production for this shot took more than an hour – though some of that time was spent experimenting with techniques that didn’t work. You can see the finished image at the top of this post. What do you think?

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I love aspens. Who doesn’t? But if you’ve tried to photograph trees, maybe you know that getting a shot you really like isn’t as easy as you think it’s going to be. You pull out your camera in front of all that golden glory, and the resulting image just doesn’t do the scene justice. So, how do you go about getting the shot you want?

Start by thinking about the most important element in your image. What are you trying to show? Is it the sweeping landscape? The beautiful mountainside? Or is the most important element of the image the colors themselves? In this case, I really wanted to show off the details on the trunks of the trees – but I also wanted to make sure that the colors were an important part of the photo. And I am almost always looking for a minimalist composition – so of course, that was part of my planning as well.

The first step was to find the right aspen glen. :) I know – that seems kind of obvious… but the thing is, it isn’t that easy. Notice that there’s no bright sunlight coming through those leaves. And notice that you can’t see the base of the trees, the ground, or any canopy or sky. Those are important details. The elements you don’t include in a photo are just as important in the planning process as the things you do include.

I needed a high vantage point with trees growing below me. Standing on the forest floor would put me too low – I’d end up with ground in the photo if I pointed my camera downward or even straight ahead. And I’d end up with sky in the photo – and distortion – if I angled the lens upward. No good. When we drove past this glen, I knew we were in the right place. The road was high enough, and the bases of the trees were low enough. And behind my scene was a vast mountain that blocked the brightness of the sky. Perfect.

The next step was to find the right tree for my “point of interest“. I walked up and down the road searching for the best one – but each time, there was something distracting behind. A trunk that tilted at an odd angle – calling attention to itself. A broken branch. Too much white trunk behind and not enough golden color. And often, trees that were too close to let just one stand out on its own. This tree was just right – but only if I stood in just the right place. There’s actually a dead trunk just behind this one, but I chose an angle that hides it. No distracting elements allowed. :)

We were in this spot for about 20 minutes, and I have just one image to show for it. But it’s the photo I wanted.

When I finally found my composition, I took a few shots to decide how much depth of field I wanted. I chose an aperture (f/4) that would allow me to smooth the details in the background as much as possible – while keeping the tree in the foreground nice and sharp.

The most important step in post-processing was getting the color balance just right. A slight color cast would be enough to leave the whole image feeling dull. A bit of contrast, some targeted sharpening and a little more brightness just for the tree trunk… and that’s about it.

So, there you go. These are the kinds of things I’m thinking about when I’m taking a photograph.

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This beautiful place in Bisti Wilderness in New Mexico is absolutely bizarre. These rocks sit on a smooth stretch of white ash and clay. The rocks themselves show striking evidence of erosion in the patterns and layers on their surface. It’s totally cool!

The challenge is to find a composition that isn’t cluttered, and to show the incredible details in the rocks without losing that beauty in all that clutter. To do this, I chose a single rock as a point of interest, and moved my camera until the rocks behind it formed a smooth curve. I got as close as I could to the rock in the foreground. This serves a dual purpose. I fill the foreground with a single object – and in doing so, I simplify the composition. This gives the viewer as much information about the site as possible – so they feel as though they could walk right into the image. The rocks in the background seem smaller because of the wide-angle lens.

I used a Graduated Neutral Density filter to reduce the brightness of the sky so that the overall dynamic range was less extreme. In post processing, I was careful about setting my color balance correctly. The sky needed a slightly different setting than the foreground since they are lit differently. It’s critically important to realize that over or under exposure can actually be distracting – so getting the exposure right helps eliminate distractions too.

Also – be sure to keep your sensor and lenses clean. If you find yourself with dust spots, water droplets, or distracting elements (footprints?) don’t be afraid to clone them out. Content-aware is a great option for handling problems like these – and we use a Wacom tablet and stylus to make precise edits effortlessly.

Here are a few tips for simplifying a cluttered composition:

  • Eliminate distracting elements from the composition.
  • Determine your point of interest, and let it fill a large part of the frame.
  • Use a wide-angle lens to enhance the size of an object close to the lens – and the decrease the size of other objects within the frame.
  • Use a larger foreground object to hide smaller objects behind it.
  • Try using a narrow depth of field to blur background objects and keep your viewer’s attention on the most important objects in the frame.
  • Get your exposure right!
  • Keep your lens and sensor clean – dust, dirt, grease, water droplets, and condensation can add distractions.

Have you ever been in a cluttered location? Do you have any tips for simplifying a cluttered comp? It’s such a fantastic challenge to be out there shooting in a place like this!

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Take a look at these shots from The Wave in Arizona. When we are in the field, we sometimes find that a composition works best in either horizontal or vertical orientation. But in most cases, after capturing the most visually appealing image, we will work to find another shot that works with the camera turned 90 degrees. Why? Because sometimes the buyer needs an image that works in a particular orientation. Is he looking for a collection of calendar images? He’s probably going to need horizontal images. Is she looking for photos for a magazine? She’ll need a vertical shot to grace the cover.

Since you never know who might want to purchase your images in the future, you can’t know which orientation will work best for their needs. Shoot in both orientations, and you’ll be ready no matter what they ask for.

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Composition: Why Size Matters

Jay Patel —  October 29, 2012

If you have ever taken photographs in a forest, you know that it can be challenging to find a good composition in a cluttered environment. One of the techniques we use for cluttered scenes like these is to isolate elements by size. This helps them stand out against a cluttered background, and clearly identifies those elements as “more important” than smaller elements within the frame.

Take a look at the above photograph of Ponytail Falls in Columbia River Gorge (Oregon). I composed the photograph so that the waterfall and the foreground trees appear to be larger than the rest of the elements. In doing so, I was able focus the attention of the viewer on these three elements.

Here is another example from the Hoh Rain Forest in Olympic National Park (Washington). Here, I have used size to isolate the old tree and the two trees leaning towards it. Because of their size, they stand out in the composition, and the viewers attention is focused on them.

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This year, Jay and I will be teaching the NFRCC Fall Seminar in Hamburg, NY. We hope to see many of you there! We will be teaching all day, so the $45 fee is an incredible value. And lunch is included! Awesome! :) We hope many of you will come out and join us!

Date: Saturday, November 10, 2012

Price: $45.00 US/CDN (Lunch Included)

Here’s what we’ll be teaching…

Morning Sessions

Composition & Mood: While the basic rules of composition are easy to understand, it is much more difficult to learn how to create impact with your imagery. How can composition and color impact the mood of the viewer?

Perception: The gestalt theories of perception provide insight into the way our brains process what we see. How can a basic understanding of how our brains work help us share our own vision with our viewers?

Hyperfocal Distance: Understanding hyperfocal distance allows us to ensure that every element in a wide-angle photo is in focus – from the pebbles just in front of the lens to the distant mountains. We’ll simplify this confusing concept and discuss the reasons for using it, the problems with calculating it, and the benefits of getting it right.

Afternoon Sessions

Histograms: Histograms are an incredibly useful tool – but most photographers aren’t using them to their full potential. We’ll talk about how we use histograms in-camera and in post processing?

From the Field to the Finished Product (This section will be broken into two parts.)

On Location: We will start by discussing the research we do before we travel and some of the decisions we make in the field. We will show some of our unprocessed images, and discuss the basic thought process that went into building them in the field. We will use the same images to continue into the next section…
Post-Processing: The sheer number of processing tools and software products available today can be overwhelming. We will show an overview of our workflow from start to finish. This section will focus on the tools we use ourselves – including Adobe Bridge, Adobe Camera RAW, and Adobe Photoshop. We will discuss the various stages we work through as we organize our workflow, process an image, and prepare it for print or web. (We will not go into detail about the specific processing techniques we use. Instead, this section is meant to help students learn to organize their work and develop a workflow.)