Archives For June 2012

Catching the Last Light

Jay Patel —  June 29, 2012

On our last day in White Sands National Monument we decided to try some creative shooting. I waited until the last light of the sun was falling on these grasses to some subtle create tonal contrast.

This photograph is all about timing and composition. You can only take a shot like this late in the evening or early in the morning – when sun is close to the horizon. I composed this shot so that the light was only falling on the grasses. All other areas in the frame were completely in shade.

I took this shot in the Columbia River Gorge – in between bouts of stinging hail and pouring rain.

Are you willing to go out and shoot in wet conditions? We often shoot in the rain – and we’ve been out there in some pretty nasty weather… thunderstorms, hail, sand-storms, windstorms, snowstorms… nasty weather can make shooting difficult. But unless the weather is dangerous, we don’t mind shooting in it. It’s about being prepared.

High winds, rain, and ocean spray made this shot from Iceland particularly difficult to capture.

Please don’t take this as an invitation to go out when the weather is dangerous… lightening can be deadly, and so can serious storms. Please stay in a safe place if there are tornado warnings, hurricane warnings, or other hazardous conditions. We’ve booked it out of locations that we felt could be dangerous more than once – because of the possibility of flash flooding, trees that might come crashing down on us (no kidding… it happens more often than you think!), high waves, and more.

Each wave splashed my lens, and rain made it difficult to stay dry while we were shooting in Glacier National Park… but that alpenglow made it all worthwhile!

But when safety is not a concern, we often shoot in nasty weather. Here are some tips that can make a real difference when you are shooting in difficult weather.

  • Use a waterproof cover to protect your camera while you are shooting. Our cameras are weather-sealed, but they certainly aren’t entirely waterproof. We use simple waterproof covers with elastic to keep them in place. Nothing fancy. If you don’t have a cover, use a plastic bag with a hole cut from one corner for the lens to poke through. It works just a well.
  • Carry a waterproof cover for your camera bag as well. It will protect your gear and your bag from the elements. When you are back indoors, be sure to open up your bag and let everything dry out. Moisture can seep in over time, and leaving the bag closed means it will take a lot longer to dry out. Even if your bag is dry inside, your camera strap and other gear may collect water while you are shooting. When you put it back in the back, that water doesn’t evaporate quickly.
  • Always carry waterproof and windproof gear. Jay and I both carry a waterproof jacket and waterproof pants in our camera bag. They fit neatly into the front pocket, and they stay there all the time, unless we are using them… or drying them out. ;) We use them for rain, of course – but we also use them a lot when it’s windy. A wind-proof layer makes a huge difference, especially when it’s cold. We can stay out a lot longer if we are protected from the wind than we could otherwise.
  • Neoprene shoes don’t keep your feet dry – but they do help keep you warm when you are walking in cold water. We spent three house walking in the Paria River in Utah one winter. With each step, our feel broke through three layers of ice before plunging into frigid water underneath. Or feet were warm and comfortable.
  • Wear fleece underneath. Fleece makes a great warmth layer – and it holds less than 1% of it’s weight in water, so it doesn’t get soggy or heavy when you are working in the rain. But it doesn’t block wind well, so wear it underneath your waterproof/windproof layer for best results. When we went for that hike in the Paria River, we wore fleece pants underneath a waterproof layer. They were in the water with every step, but they didn’t get waterlogged, and they helped capture the heat from our bodies.
  • Wear fleece OVER a pair of quick-dry pants. Sounds silly, I know. But the fact is that in many cases, we only need that warmer layer in the morning and evening. We often deal with freezing conditions in the morning, and then end up having to remove layers later in the day. If your quick-dry pants are underneath your fleece layer, you get the benefit of the warm layer, but you can also remove it quickly. You’ll be ready to keep going in your quick-dry pants all day – and when it gets cold again in the evening, you can put that fleece layer back on and you are good to go.
  • Quick-dry pants? Definitely! The first time I visited Columbia River Gorge in Oregon, I didn’t own any quick-dry pants. I waded through the river to get to a waterfall, and ended up knee-deep in the water. Wet jeans are very heavy, and they take forever to dry. By the time we returned to the car, I was freezing cold. Jay had a pair of quick-dry pants. His were dry within about 30 minutes of climbing out of the river – and he was comfortable and warm. Now, I have several pairs, and I always use them when I’m on location.
  • Carry chemical heat packs. We keep a couple of these in our pockets when we are out in the cold. In between shots, we can warm our hands by sticking them in our pockets – and we can help extend the life of our batteries, by putting our camera inside our jackets. You can also keep one in your camera bag to help keep your batteries from draining because of the cold. You can put them inside your shoes if your feet are cold, too. I even put two inside my hood by my cheeks once. My face was getting really cold in the wind, so I cinched my hoods nice and tight, and placed heat packs between the two layers against my cheeks. I wouldn’t recommend putting these directly on your skin – especially when you are very cold. A layer of fabric will protect your skin from direct heat, and help to radiate the heat more evenly.
  • And what about post-production? Be ready to clone out water droplets! We use a Wacom graphics tablet and the power of Photoshop to make short work of water, dust, dirt, sand… you name it!

It was REALLY cold out there! But it doesn’t get much prettier than Bryce Canyon after a snow storm!

The photos on this page were all taken in difficult conditions. But because we were prepared, we weren’t uncomfortable. Take care of yourself and your gear, and you’ll be able to shoot even when the weather isn’t cooperating! Have fun – and stay safe!

This one is from our Photo Walk at San Gregorio Beach. It was cold and windy – and the water was chilly, too! Brrr!

To learn more about photography check out our ebooks and webinar below:

Pulse of Rain

Jay Patel —  June 27, 2012

I took this shot during our workshop in Everglades National Park. We had a small group of students who braved the elements and went wandering and shooting in the rain.

On this particular day at Nine Mile Pond, we got some very unique light conditions… there was a rainbow, rain, and a brilliant sunrise all at once. I was not shooting anything in particular, just playing with the lens and wandering between the students helping out when these two blades of grass caught my attention. When I shot the image, I was surprised to see these tiny pulses… traced by the water drops as they bounced off the lake surface.

This is perhaps one of the most unique shots in my portfolio.

Photographing a Splash

Varina Patel —  June 26, 2012

I spent the better part of two hours photographing water as it splashed against the rocks at Bean Hollow State Park’s Pebble Beach in California. I noticed that foam was collecting in a pool just beyond the biggest rocks, so I watched for a while until I could begin to predict where the biggest splashes would occur. I also wanted to make sure that I chose the spot with the best light – I wanted soft shadows to show the incredible details. But I also wanted to be sure to avoid blown highlights and deep, black shadows. This spot was just what I wanted.

After I chose my spot, I took several test shots – I wanted nice, sharp details, and a perfect exposure, so that I wouldn’t have to worry about clipping my highlights. A chose to shoot at f/13 and 1/800 at ISO 400. An even faster shutter speed would have been better, but I wasn’t willing to sacrifice too much depth of field with a wider aperture. I didn’t want to add too much noise either, so I didn’t increase my ISO beyond 400.

And then I clicked away happily until I was sure I had what I wanted… deleting far more shots than I kept, since I couldn’t predict what the waves would do as they crashed ashore.

This is my favorite of the collection.

Post-processing was easy – I converted the image to black and white, but gave it a bit of a blue tint. I also brightened up the lower right corner just a bit.

Have you wondered what it’s like for a husband-and-wife landscape photographer team? For us, it’s like being on a date. :) We arrived at this location well before the sun went down, and scouted it out. After joking around with a few stragglers, we soon found ourself alone under these incredible arches. We set up our shots and laid down next to one other on the smooth sandstone as our cameras clicked away automatically nearby. We talked about new photography ideas, discussed exotic locations we hope to visit someday, and counted meteors as they passed overhead. We watched some guy trying to paint with light half a mile away, shared the chocolates we’d brought along, and laughed about our experiences with our kids.

Nothing beats spending time with your best friend in the wilderness!

The light on the arch and hoodoo is natural. We took these photo long after the sun had gone down. The star trails are blended from 85 and 120 individual exposures – each with a 30-second shutter speed. We built Photoshop actions to blend the images quickly and easily using layers, masks, and blending modes. The camera remained in the same place throughout the entire shooting process. Our remote releases allowed us to set up the camera, and then stand back and let it do all the work. The hoodoo in Varina’s shot is lit by moonlight. The arches in Jay’s shot are lit by the very last light of the day, reflected onto the sandstone.

Here’s Varina’s shot from the night before.

To learn more about creative techniques and proper exposure check out our eBooks below:

Spring Bloom @ Iceberg Lake

Jay Patel —  June 22, 2012

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Iceberg Lake is about a 9-mile round-trip, but this is the scene that awaits you! We arrived at the lake in stormy weather. The clouds were moving fast overhead, and the sun peeked through every now and then – shining patches of the light onto the surface of this turquoise lake.

The heavily overcast skies softened the light over the scene, so the image wasn’t too difficult to expose properly. My main concern was capturing detail in the highlight areas. I waited until the lake was partially lit by the sun to bring out the brilliant colors you see in this image.

Here’s a short video for you. This time, we’re on location in Columbia River Gorge in Oregon. We offer some simple tips for photographing waterfalls. Enjoy!

To learn about capturing waterfalls with vibrant colors and proper exposure check out our eBooks below:

Mountain Light

Jay Patel —  June 20, 2012

At an altitude of 12,000 feet at it’s highest elevation, the road that passes through Rocky Mountain National Park is one of the highest in the US. Oxygen levels are low up here, and if you aren’t used to the change, it can be tough even to walk. But the view is incredible, especially after one of the frequent thunderstorms.

My goal was to capture the details in the boulder in the foreground, and to show the beautiful layers in the landscape. I used a soft GND filter to balance the light between the sky and the ground. Even with the help of the filter, the range of light between the sky and the ground was too great for the camera to capture without blown highlights or a loss of detail in the shadows. I used our iHDR manual blending technique to restore the details in the highlights.

I used SmugMugs “Camera Awesome” app to take his shot with my iPhone. :) I love how the bright California Poppies stand out against the background. This was in bright sunlight – with harsh shadows. So I made some shade with my body. That evened out the lighting and let me get the shot I wanted. Not bad for an iPhone, right?

Take a look at this photo of Metlako Falls in the Columbia River Gorge. Besides the vibrant colors, you will notice that every part of the photograph seems to be correctly exposed. A histogram can help us determine whether a photo is properly exposed, and if the photo needs to be bracketed in order to capture the entire dynamic range of the scene. Sometimes, we process a single image multiple times in order to get proper exposure in different parts of the photograph.

Lets take a look at this scene as an example. If you wanted to expose this scene for the highlights, I would look at the bright water in the falls, and adjust the shutter speed and exposure until my histogram showed that I had captured detail in the bright areas of the image. We can do the same during post-processing… as seen in the image below.

In post-processing, I kept an eye on the highlights and histogram. I adjusted the image so that I had the detail and contrast that I wanted in the highlight. Of course, this meant that the rest of the image was drastically underexposed. I can blend the image exposed for the highlights with one exposed for the shadows and mid-tone, and the result will be a natural-looking scene with nice details throughout the image.

To learn more, check out our eBooks and Webinars below: